With the winter now well and truly established, it’s the perfect time to leave the lagers and hazys in the fridge and explore the darker side of craft with this ancient and woefully underrepresented style. The smooth, dark and uniquely fortifying stout.
A common question about this style is the distinction between it and (seemingly identical) porter. Historically they were one and the same, with the world ‘stout’ merely being used to describe porters that were stronger than typical. These days the general consensus amongst (most) brewers and judges is that stout should be darker, drier and more bitter than an equivalent porter. For any other drinker however, the styles are so similar that a distinction barely has to be made.
Sadly, while a favourite amongst brewers and a small but dedicated section of the craft market, stout remains one of those beers (much like English bitter) that just can’t seem to shake its image of being an old fashioned ‘grandad’ beer. If there’s any hope for this grand old style in the future, it might be in it’s incredible sustainability as a beer. Reliant on quality grain rather than the latest rockstar American hops, every part of a stout can be (and typically is) entirely home grown right here in New Zealand, protecting it against both the air miles and uniquely uncertain economic environment that the near future faces.
Here are some classics in the pantheon of New Zealand craft stout that I think more than demonstrate the merit of this remarkable style. Also, for those in Canterbury seeking a truly wild stout experience, I highly recommend the annual New Zealand Stout Challenge. Held jointly at the Moon Under Water and Punky Brewster pubs (with a shuttle rotating between), its a fantastic event to truly immerse oneself in everything stout has to offer.
Liberty: Darkest Days 6%abv
If you had to judge all New Zealand stout by one example, Liberty Brewing’s Darkest Days would be a sound pick. Exactingly balanced both in it’s expression of sweet, savoury and bitter character, and in its weight on the palate. Satisfying and refreshing in deliciously equal measure.
Parrot Dog: Stout 5%abv
One of the very few stouts (or dark beers of any kind) that is available more affordably in a six pack. Smooth and comparatively easy drinking at only 5.0%abv, but nonetheless full flavoured with all the coffee and chocolate notes essential to the style.
Three Boys: Oyster Stout 6.5% abv
While this beer is most definitely brewed with fresh oysters, don’t let that scare you off it, it in no way tastes fishy. Rather, the oysters add a deep umami and touch of brine that weaves a complex savoury spectrum through the otherwise rich and roasty malt flavours.
8 Wired: iStout 
10%abv
One of the only Imperial strength stouts to be found in a core range, 8 Wired’s iStout is a beautifully rich and fortifying example. Dark chocolate and cold brew coffee, with a huge concentration of flavour that oscillates between sumptuously sweet and powerfully bitter, with a thread of woodsmoke that adds finesse to the finish.
Tim Newman – Hoppiness.co.nz