Written by Tim Newman
Malt (specifically malted barley) is the indivisible building block over which all beer is built. But in today’s contemporary craft beer scene, the styles we’re drinking have never been more estranged from this humble grain. Super fruity pilsners, pales and hazy beer top to bottom have become so hop focused that the malt backbone (however crucial) is treated almost as an impurity to be minimised in the final product. Where the malt and hop component of beers once walked hand in hand, the malt is now left to trail behind and carry the bags.
This trend began with the rise of strong IPA, as the alcohol by volume rose beyond six percent (and continued to climb), the malt sweetness that accompanied it started to become overly conspicuous. Brewers turned towards lighter forms of malt usually utilised in lagers and pilsners to dry out their IPAs, and this practice eventually bled over to practically all pale styles.
Malt driven beers have not disappeared entirely, but these days they now languish in the margins of the scene. Sign of their demise is brought into grim relief by referencing the entry numbers for the annual Brewers Guild Awards, where the Dark Beer and English Styles categories have shrunk almost year over year for nearly a decade, with English Styles now at risk of dwindling out of existence entirely.
But, though it may not be in vogue, that isn’t to say malt has gone anywhere; it remains essential to all beer (without resorting to synthetic enzymes at least). Even though one may be brewed with wheat, maze, or even rice, it’s barley and the magical amylase enzyme unlocked within that makes fermentation possible by ‘sharing’ with the other grains in the mash.
So here’s some choice examples for those looking to re-discover (or perhaps for our younger drinkers, even explore for the first time) the magic of malt driven beer.
COOPERS: ‘Vintage Ale’ 7.5%abv
Although it may be Australian, Coopers vintage ale is an exceptional (and exceptionally available) example of a serious malt driven beer. It’s expansive richness is counterbalanced by a powerful bitterness that ensures the palate finishes with a tannic dryness. Made once a year, this is a truly vintage beer that continues to refine and develop in the bottle over at least a decade.
TOWNSHEND: ‘Old House’ ESB 5.3%abv
One of the only core range ESBs (Extra Special Bitter) in the country, and the standard by which I judge all other such NZ brewed examples. Subtly sweet biscuity malt balances perfectly with the equally gentle earth, fruit and spice of the hops and moderately bitter finish. A graceful and precise duet of malt and hop characters.
LIBERTY: ‘Prohibition’ Porter 12.3%abv
For those that want to experience the pinnacle of malt driven beer, Liberty has an option. This toweringly strong porter is more than twice the potency of beers typical to the style; stronger even than some wines. A roughly year-long period resting in American bourbon barrels tempers and softens the explosive malt richness and adds an essential savoury nuance to this leviathan of a porter.
